Hello all.
We left you in Alanya with repairs up in the air, and I'm happy to report
that all is now well. Well, it's never "all", but the engines work, and we
have electricity!!! Unlucky for me, Rose is heading out for the UK again
for her appointment with the rheumatism specialist. Lucky for us we were
able to use air miles from Istanbul. Some quirkiness in the internet
booking from here to Istanbul--all the fares on the internet search sites
were about $600 return or more. Fortunately, Never-say-die Tim checked with
Turkish air direct and they have a one-way fare of TL95--about $65!!!! She
did have another asthma attack in Alanya, so we're hoping to get her asthma
sorted as well when she's there. Nothing much to report on Alanya since our
last letter except Rose got a nice surprise when Nathan, her son, and family
decide they needed a warm getaway and, coincidentally, there were great
deals to Alanya. Nice visit, quality family time. We also took Charlie
(the cat) to the vet for a general check and booster shot of some sort.
He's been a bit under the weather and losing weight so even though the vet
there gave him a clean bill of health, we (really "I" since Rose is
deserting me again) plan to get him in for a look-see here in Marmaris.
So we did the sea trials--successful--about 2 weeks ago in Alanya and left
for Kemer, 65 miles across the Gulf of Antalya. I must have checked about
ten weather forecasts, all in varying degrees calling for light winds.
Right!!! Don't believe Turkish weather reports! About an hour or two after
departure the wind and waves just built up and built up and pretty soon we
were getting 35 knots with 10-15 seas on the starboard bow. Rose was ready
to turn around but we were half way there so we altered course to the south
to another bay and hunkered down. For the first time in twelve years and a
lot of poor conditions, we actually had a wave roll over the entire boat
including the rigid bimini top. All sorts of crap fell on the floor inside,
etc., etc.. Needless to say the boat was a mess. Broke a bunch of slides
on the tramp as well. It's never easy!!!!
The next day we scooted around the corner, only about 30 miles in good
conditions, to Finike where some friends are wintering. Daily rates at
these marinas are prohibitively expensive--as much as $150/day--so we
anchored out. That was a week ago Saturday and there was an SPCA benefit
BBQ that night so we dropped the dinghy in, which miraculously is finally
fixed (or was it?), and motored in for drinks on Katanne and the steaks on
the barbie with Efes beers. About 10, the party broke up so we walked back
to Katanne to dinghy back out to the boat. Yep, dinghy wouldn't start.
Fortunately, we were just outside the harbor entrance, and I had just
reconditioned our old wooden paddles as they nicked the nice aluminum ones
accidentally when they fixed the dinghy in Ashkelon. We paddled out, and
you wouldn't believe the old rheumatoid girl out paddling the old man. Only
took about 10 minutes.
We'd planned on a few days there so there wasn't an undue holdup, and the
marina graciously and for free, towed us into the repair shop the next
morning. I stopped in about noon, and the guy said it was fixed but needed
the plugs cleaned and fuel. Oh, oh. I had put about 15 liters in the night
before. Turned out there was a hole in the integral aluminum tank,
basically impossible to repair cheaply so we threw a plastic tanks in.
Cleaned the carburetor as well and it's running fine once again. Fabulous
and cheap dinner that night after happy hour, and we set off on Monday for
Kastellorizon, a small Greek island about 45 miles away and only 1 mile off
the Turkish coast. The Greeks and Turks have an agreement that if the
population drops below 80, they'll cede it to Turkey. Why the Turks didn't
invade and take it over when they invaded Cyprus is a mystery to us. We
just anchored out in a nice bay and stayed on the boat as we were leaving
early the next morning.
Next day, we were crossing Fethiye Bay and while the forecast was iffy, it
was uneventful until we arrived at our planned destination, Ragged Bay.
Looked like a good anchorage, and the book showed a nice picture of all
these boats anchored behind a little islet in the bay. Many of the
anchorages here require you, for varying reasons, to anchor and then put out
a stern line to the shore. This is a real hassle so we picked places where
this wasn't necessary. The problem here was the depths were too great for
our measly 220 feet of chain so we left in search of a better spot. Just
down the coast was a popular spot, and we lucked out in that the local tour
boats (gullets), large junk-like boats were just leaving to go back to port.
While there was plenty of room, it was one of those stern line places. BUT,
Rose got the English guys next to us to swim in our lines. We did a good
job the next morning with the dinghy getting the lines backs and dropped a
bottle of wine off with them as a thank you.
Finally, the last leg to Marmaris had an even worse forecast, but Rose could
smell a nice dock and wifi so we took off anyway. The weather actually
cooperated, and we got to Marmaris about two. I called ahead to ask about
fenders, and they said not required. Of course, when we arrived, the
"pilot" boat said "where's your fenders?" A bit of a fire drill later we
were secured and will remain for the winter. Turns out we're just across
the dock from our friends on Freebird, and there are a few other familiar
faces here as well. We've had a few welcome drinks and dinners since our
arrival last week, but most of our time has been sorting out the place and
getting a car for the winter.
On line, the car rates are ridiculous especially considering it is off
season. Fortunately there is a well organized and large cruisers' radio net
in the morning. There are probably about 3,000 boats around including all
the ones on the hard in the boatyards, and some people have been here for
years!! A Scottish guy replied to my car inquiry and gave me a number
explaining the guy would start at about TL650/month but I should be able to
get him down to TL550. Lucky us, the car guy volunteered TL600/month pay as
you go or TL500/pay in advance. Since we're splitting the car with
Freebird, we opted for the advance deal and have a pretty nice Hyundai for
about $175/month each. We're about 8 miles out of town, so, while there is
good bus service, a car is a must for we that are spoiled.
Internet has been poor here at the marina, but there is a Turkcell deal via
cell that is cheap. Waiting to see what the service ends up here longer
term before doing that, but I'm anxiously awaiting a return of service as
the sail makers have sent in quotes for a new jib. I forgot to mention that
the hellish time on the Gulf of Antalya put a tear in the jib and, at twelve
years old, it just isn't worth repairing. Oh well, what's another few
thousand. After all, BOAT stands for Bring Out Another Thousand.
So we are nicely tucked in for six months with transportation. The weather
here has been pretty awful with thunderstorms and rain, but fortunately we
are no longer the biggest stick in the harbor so a third lightning strike is
fairly unlikely. We have out our winter stuff--Rose is getting more in
England--and the electric heaters are plugged in. All in all, seems like a
good spot with superb services and parts availability, so we're happy right
now except for bad wifi which we can remedy. Rose takes off on another
marathon trip tomorrow and her return is open as we don't know how long all
the docs will take, so poor Tim is baching it again.
Cheers to everyone.
Tim & Rose
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