'RE BACK ON OUT MALAYSIAN PHONE NUMBER: country code 60 197951501 My apologies in the past for not advising you to drop the zero in front of the regular number after the CC.
Hello everyone.
When we last wrote, we were wrapping things up in Phuket and getting ready to head back down to Langkawi and Penang to begin our Asian land travel. We stayed around a few extra days in Phuket to get part of the rigging done. The rest will have to await our return as it was going to take 2 weeks to get parts like turnbuckles in from Oz. Rose also started seeing an acupuncture guy at the hospital and had a last appointment to attend to. So far not much luck with either her prescriptions or that to ease her aching. However, she came up with the thought that there might be something in the boat's water system--has to be chemical--causing her discomfort. We're experimenting with bottled water and out impending 10 days in Bali will tell the tale. Wish us luck.
So we left Ao Po Marina in the north for Ao Chalong on the south end of Phuket to check out of the country. Major drama at Ao Chalong. Phuket, and maybe all of Thailand, have public moorings which are orange with a blue stripe. There's been some problem in Ao Chalong with the commercial boats throwing yachties off these public balls, claiming they are theirs alone. Some other guys checked with the harbor master who uncategorically confirmed they were first come first served moorings. So we took an empty ball and, to make a long story short, about 5 pm a sport fisherman with 2 local guys came up, honked and ordered us off. Well, let me tell you, I saw another side of Rose!!! She was rather assertive and told them in no uncertain terms to stay away from our boat. Shortening this up dramatically, after about 2 hours of haggling over the phone, yelling back and forth and them getting more guys, the harbor police came out. No one admitted we were right but they finally agreed we could stay the night (we were leaving the next day anyway). So we go to bed and I find Rose cowering worried they're going to come back and slit our throats!!! She now explains she was only assertive because she was afraid. Coulda fooled me!!! Really, this was mild mannered Rose Dyer turning into super bitch withour even a phone booth--sharper than a honed razor, able to heap shit on small Thais with a single bound, etc. There is a moral in this--don't mess with Rose!
Next morning, bright and early, we left for the Phi Phis, about 25 miles away. Oh oh, the engine driven freezer isn't working again!!! Oh, and I forgot to mention some workman stepped on the port engine water lock (keeps water from siphoning back into the engine), but the guy changing the oil noticed it. This is a rip-off $600 plastic box with a baffle, but our guys fabricated us one out of aluminum (aluminium if you prefer) alloy for a fraction of the cost of a new plastic one!!! So we did the usual touristy things at Phi Phi and left the next day for an intermediate stop before getting to Langkawi. This was the area in which the pirates got the English couple so we were a bit nervous. Also friends who had left earlier had had terrible weather. We had neither and had to motor all the way to the Telaga Harbor marina for check in to Malaysia and freezer repairs. The freezer had a leak in the coolant return pipe and these guys changed the whole thing out as the old one was built too far into the bowels of the boat to effect a repair. They only found it after discovering a couple other problems and 2 guys worked two 12 hour days to get the job done. This $ thousands job in the states or Caribbean was about $300 here!! Yippee!!!!!!. Working great now. Of course, now the electric one has crapped out. Cooling water problem that I diagnosed and really nothing wrong with the freezer, thank God. They'll change out the clogged hose while we're gone.
Rose met a couple of other pommies, one of whom had a car which we rented from him for a day or two to go see our friends in Kuah, about 20 kilometers away. Had lunch with Freebird and next day met Scot Free II and took a longboat out to the "Hole in the Wall" where they are leaving their boat to travel home to Canada. Very cool outing and the food at the place was excellent. We also took the opportunity of the car to restock our depleted liquor stocks at dirt cheap duty free prices. One night we had dinner with the two English couples Rose had met and had a great meal--surf and turf for two was about $50 and had shrimp, fish, squid, steak and lamb chops with the usual extras. Before we knew it, it was midnight and they kicked us out, but not after an amusing story from one of the guys. You may remember us talking about the Kiwi boat Squid. Joey befriended the son on board with his elderly, and somewhat odd parents. As usual, the conversation turned around to boating "incidents" and after a few harrowing tales, Graham says something about this Kiwi cat, Squid. Seems they were anchored in some bay and Squid pulled up in front of them, putting out, according to Graham, way too much chain. Well, the wind kicked up a bit which tends to push boats backward to the full length of their chain, and, sure enough, Squid banged into Graham's boat. However, Ian, the crotchety father on Squid (you have to know the guy) claims that Graham's boat dragged forward into Squid. Folks, this is physically impossible but typical of Ian, a short man with an even bigger syndrome. He even tried this preposterous story out on the insurance guys who were paying Graham's damages. Graham got paid!
So we finally got our repairs made and headed around to Kuah before leaving for Penang. We decided to stop at the resort beach just beyond Telaga for a quick lunch and massage before heading on. More drama!! We anchored the dinghy out a ways so we wouldn't have to drag it around the beach. After my massage (Rose was getting a longer treatment) I saw the dinghy was getting grounded and a couple of guys helped me get it back out a bit. I went back to the beach bar to settle in for a few screwdrivers and some spring rolls waiting for Rose. I had debated just going back to the boat and waiting for Rose to call, but the thought of food and a cool drink impaired my judgment. I had just ordered my libation when, bam, all of a sudden, the surf kicks up. We're not talking Hawaiian size rollers, but big enough. I saw the dinghy get swamped and raced down the beach to get out of there, holding my wallet and cell phone over my head. A guy came out to help me and I was trying to pull on the anchor line so I could go, while he pushed. Boom, 3 foot breaking wave over the bow, knocked me in the water and completely flooded the boat. I have a new cheap phone now and have confirmed that the dinghy bilge pump works well!!!
We ran into SFII half way to Kuah and hung out with them for a few days. Had some big storms and we actually--I know you'll find it hard to believe--dragged anchor a bit. Had their crew over for dinner both for their company and to empty our freezer prior to land travelling. Had a few dolphin swimming around the boat and watched the sea eagles feeding at sunset. It was really nice except for dragging, but, at least, we didn't hit anyone!! The boom light went on the fritz, but I got it fixed only to have it and a couple of other lights outside go off the next day. We're leaving that to the electricians in Penang.
We spent an uneventful couple of nights in Kuah, arriving in pouring rain, and then we left for the 60 mile run down to Penang. Damn it, found another leak in the starboard engine room, but it wasn't a deluge. Leak in the exhaust muffler. We finally had some wind and actually put a sail up--first time in weeks or maybe months.
So we arrived in Penang about 4 days ago and have met with Harris, the boat yard guy who is doing our repairs and looking after the boat while we're gone. We met the travel agent who, by and large, isn't too good, but got Rose a cheap flight to the UK and does the tedious legwork of searching out acceptable alternatives. So far, all we have booked is 10 days in Bali, which, even with airfare, is as close to free as you can get a vacation. They're researching the rest at the travel agents, but when we return, we have to hustle out passports over to the Chinese consulate for visas--takes about a week. Then we're doing China for 2 weeks or so, back for a week to get Vietnamese visas, then off to Bangkok, River Kwai, northern Thailand and the golden triangle for about a week. We then segue to Siem Reap, site of Angkor Wat, pick up a week cruise down the Mekong river ending in Ho Chi Minh city (Saigon), a week in Nam and then back to Penang. Lest you think I have beaten the financial crisis, here's an example of travel costs around here. We're not doing this particluar tour but it is indicative of the deals. 8 day/7 nights in five star hotels, tours up the yingyang, almost all your meals and round trip airfare from Penang to Beijing--which is a loooonnngg way--is about $900, taxes and service included.
Okay, that's it. You're up to date and we have an 8:15 flight to get tomorrow morning.
Cheers
Tim and Rose
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